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How to Install Hardwood Floors

Choosing a Floor and Installation Type

There are hundreds of different flooring options out there for a hardwood floor. Not only are there different tree species, but also different cuts to the boards, different finishes, and different edging. When installing floors on your own, you want to consider the following questions:

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Preparation

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Installing Hardwood Floors Using Nails

Before You Begin:
You must have at least 3/4" thick plywood on the subfloor to be able to use this method.

You will need:

  • Vapor barrier paper (15-pound tar paper or felt)
  • Drill for drilling pilot holes
  • Nails
  • Nail gun & staples
  • Nail-set
  • Hammer
  • Dead blow hammer
  • Tapping block
  • Pry bar
  • Wood putty of the color of your wood
  • Chop saw
  • Table saw
  • Chalk line
  • Tape measure

Step 1: Vapor barrier
Roll out the vapor barrier paper so that each strip overlaps the next by at least 4 inches.

Step 2: Mark joists
Use a pencil to mark where the joists are along the baseboards.

Step 3: Chalk the Longest Edge
At the longest wall that is perpendicular to your joists, snap a chalk line out 3/8" from the baseboard. This will give the floor a little room to expand and contract with weather changes. Some woods and some climates may require a larger distance than 3/8", so consult the manufacturer first.

Step 4: Nail Down the First Row
Take one of your longest boards and lay it down along the chalk line. Drill pilot holes through it down into the joist and face-nail it down. You need to have at least two nails in every board, with a nail placed every 10" - 12". Lay varying lengths of boards down to the end of the row and drill pilot holes through each. With tongue-and-groove boards, each tongue should fit into each groove. At the point of every joist, face-nail each board. The first row must be face-nailed because the nail gun would shove the boards out of alignment with the chalk line.

When you reach the end of the row, unless you are lucky, you will not have any boards that are the perfect length. Measure the length you need with the tape measure and cut a board on the tablesaw. The easiest way to measure is to turn the board around so that the end that is supposed to be against the other boards is pointing to the wall. Then you can measure at the point where the boards overlap. Make sure to leave a 3/8" gap again.

Step 5: Continue Nailing Boards
As you put in the next row, if you are using tongue-and-groove flooring, place the tapping block on the side of the plank and tap it into the previous row using the dead blow hammer. Continue hand-nailing until there is room to use the nail gun. When there is room for it, place the gun lip over the edge of the board, then hit hard with the mallet to drive the staple in. It should go through the tongue of the plank rather than the top. If your row ends in a threshold, come back later with a circular saw to cut the edges of all the rows at once.

When you get to the opposite wall, you will need to hand-nail again. You can use a pry bar and some flooring scraps to help you get the plank edges firmly against each other.

Step 6: The Last Row
Chances are, your last row's space will be too narrow for the entire width of a plank. Cut the boards for this last row length-wise to fit with a 3/8" gap between it and the wall.

Step 7: Fill Holes
Use the wood putty to fill the nail holes for the nail-faced boards. Fill the hole and wipe off the extra putty.

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Installing Hardwood Floors Using Glue

Before You Begin
When doing a glue installation, you can't walk on the floor for 24 hours afterwards. This means that it will take you at least two days, because you'll have to do the last few rows only after the rest of the room has set. Make sure you do not glue yourself into a corner.

When you buy your glue, choose the best product you can afford. This is not an area where you should try to cut corners. The best glues offer moisture resistance. They may require one or two steps. We recommend Tec adhesives.

Be sure to follow all the safety guidelines provided by the glue manufacturer.

You will need:

We recommend the Roberts Laminate Flooring Installation Kit, which comes with spacers, pry/pull bar, and tapping block.

Step 1: Spacers
Put spacers along all the walls for the expansion gap. Use the manufacturer's recommended spacing, which will depend on the wood type and the climate.

Step 2: Glue
Start at the wall that is opposite from the door of the room. You will work your way toward the door. Pour a small amount of glue on the floor near the spacers. Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle and press so the teeth contact the concrete. Spread enough glue for 2 to 3 rows of boards at a time.

Step 3: First Row
Lay the first row along the spacers. If they are tongue-and-groove, the groove faces the wall. Press the wood firmly into the glue. Put the tapping block on the flooring and gently tap it with the dead blow hammer. Each end of the row should reach spacers on the side walls. Use the circular saw to cut the wood to fit.

When you reach the end of the row, unless you are lucky, you will not have any boards that are the perfect length. Measure the length you need with the tape measure and cut a board on the tablesaw. The easiest way to measure is to turn the board around so that the end that is supposed to be against the other boards is pointing to the wall. Then you can measure at the point where the boards overlap.

Step 4: Next Rows
Place each row so that the planks are staggered in length. Tap it into the first row using the tapping block and dead blow hammer. As you reach the end of your glue, apply more. Every once in a while, lift up a board to make sure that there is glue on the back of it. If you get glue on the top side of a board, make sure to clean it off with the glue remover. Do not step on the boards at any time.

Step 5: Stop Early and Wait
Leave a walkway of unfinished floor at the far end of the room, put the lid on the glue, and stop for the day. Wait for at least 24 hours.

Step 6: Last Rows
The next day, finish the last rows, continuing as before. For the last row, use the table saw to cut boards lengthwise to fit between the second-to-last row and the spacers. If this last row is very narrow, you may choose to glue the edge of the last row to the second-to-last row. Gently use the pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to push the last row in place. You should also glue on transition pieces at this time. Wait 24 hours again before walking on these last rows.

Step 7: Remove Spacers
The next day, you can remove the spacers and put shoe molding back on.

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Installing a Floating Hardwood Floor

See the directions for installing laminate floors.

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